Today’s guest is Zuoyi (pronounced: Zoe) Phang, a routesetter based in Durham, North Carolina, and a member of the setting team at Triangle Rock Club. Zuoyi began climbing in 2018 after a friend invited her to a gym birthday party and she quickly “fell down the rabbit hold,” climbing nearly every day while balancing long shifts in the service industry. Not long after, she was recruited into routesetting and has been building her experience ever since, working across multiple Triangle Rock Club locations and setting USA Climbing events across the Southeast. Notably, Zuoyi has also set for Siege the Southeast. Zuoyi is a USA Climbing Level 2 routesetter with plans to step into her first chief roles in the near future.

In this episode, Zuoyi and host Holly Chen dive into the human side of routesetting: the emotions that come with creative work, the role ego plays in the craft, and how team members can support each other through the inevitable frictions of collaborative setting.

General Topics Covered

• Why routesetting can be more emotional than people expect
• Managing frustration, feedback and vulnerability when sharing climbs with the public
• How ego shows up in routesetting, and the difference between healthy pride and destructive ego
• Using curiosity and communication to navigate disagreements about grades, movement and style
• How body types, strengths, and climbing backgrounds shape setters’ perspectives
• Recognizing when a teammate is struggling and how crews can support each other during a tough day
• The role of leadership and crew dynamics in diffusing tension on a setting team
• Balancing innovation and practicality when testing new ideas on the wall
• What an ideal routesetting team culture can look like, and the importance of staying serious about the craft but lighthearted enough to enjoy the process

Show Notes

• Find Zuoyi Phang on Instagram
• Triangle Rock Club
• Siege Climbing
• An Episode of Affirmations: Battling Imposter Syndrome with Ethan Paris

Closing Notes

If you’d like to nominate someone as a guest next guest, have a topic you want to see us tackle or have questions, we’d love for you to reach out. You can find our pitch form here.

The Impact Driver Podcast is a production of the Climbing Business Journal. Today’s episode is sponsored by Rúngne, Cascade Specialty, Trango, Approach and Onsite. It was edited and produced by Holly Yu Tung Chen, Megan Cheek, Scott Rennak and Joe Robinson, and our theme music is by Devin Dabney.

The post Creative Ego: The Good and The Bad – CBJ Podcast with Zuoyi Phang appeared first on Climbing Business Journal.

Today’s guest is Jeremy Ho, who many  know as JHo, one of the most recognizable names in the U.S. setting community. Jeremy has worked in the climbing industry since 2007, primarily as a routesetter, and has been a National Routesetter with USA Climbing since 2012. He now serves as USAC’s National Routesetting Program Manager, helping shape education, pathways, and standards across the country. Previously, Jeremy was Director of Routesetting at Touchstone Climbing and Sportrock Climbing Centers, and he has set events ranging from USAC Team Trials and Open Bouldering Nationals to Bouldering World Cups and North American Cup Series competitions. Jeremy and host Holly Chen dive into leadership, development, and the realities of building a sustainable national routesetting pipeline in this episode.

General Topics Covered

• Leading a national routesetting program and stepping into a national leadership role
• Clearer USA Climbing pathways and clinic structure
• Representation, access, and underrepresented setter initiatives
• New prerequisites and partnerships (PRS clinics) to better prepare setters before entering USA Climbing clinics
• Youth competition difficulty and long-term athlete retention
• Bottlenecks and what really moves setters forward in the USAC pipeline
• Crew selection, team cohesion, and why soft skills matter at high-level events

Show Notes

• Find Jeremy Ho on Instagram 
• USA Climbing Routesetter Resources 
• USA Climbing Routesetter Pathway
• Amy Stone Foundation

Closing Notes

If you’d like to nominate someone as a guest next guest, have a topic you want to see us tackle or have questions, we’d love for you to reach out. You can find our pitch form here.

The Impact Driver podcast is a production of the Climbing Business Journal. Today’s episode is sponsored by Rúngne, Approach, Essential, Onsite and Flashed. It was edited and produced by Holly Yu Tung Chen, Megan Cheek, Scott Rennak and Joe Robinson, and our theme music is by Devin Dabney.

The post Inside USA Climbing’s Routesetting Program – CBJ Podcast with Jeremy Ho appeared first on Climbing Business Journal.

This season, the podcast steps into video!

The team at CBJ always wanted to share the human moments that didn’t make it into audio—facial expressions, our pets wandering into frame, and when we awkwardly mime climbing movements. If you’re listening, from wherever you get your podcasts, find a chance to bop on over to CBJ’s YouTube channel for the full experience.

Welcome back to another year of the Impact Driver Podcast. Same conversations, now on camera for many episodes.

Today’s guest brings us full circle to our first-ever episode of the Impact Driver Podcast, as we welcome Sierra McMurry (they/them) back to the show after two years. Sierra has been climbing for over a decade and routesetting for nearly as long, working at commercial gyms and competitions as a contract setter while balancing life as a PhD candidate in wildlife biology at North Carolina State University. Frequently traveling between the East and West, Sierra brings a wide range of setting styles and team experiences into every room they enter. They are a USAC Level 2 routesetter, with a growing focus on competition setting, education, and building safer, more inclusive pathways into the profession. Sierra and Holly dive into all those topics and more on CBJ’s first video podcast episode.

General Topics Covered

• The anatomy of an ideal setting day (hint: good coffee)
• Why competition boulders belong in commercial gyms
• From “rose-colored glasses” to clearer instincts: spotting supportive crews, avoiding tokenism and building confidence through community
• True inclusion versus performative allyship in routesetting
• Soft skills as the make-or-break factor
• USA Climbing pathways, changing rules and unintended “walls”: how language, requirements and culture can discourage emerging setters
• Aesthetics, Instagram and the “before/after” boulder

Show Notes

• Find Sierra McMurry on Instagram and their Ph.D Portfolio
• The first Impact Driver Podcast episode: Sierra McMurry – Routesetting on Common and Uncommon Ground 
• Routesetting Tips and Workflow feat. Sierra McMurry

Closing Notes

If you’d like to nominate someone as a guest next guest, have a topic you want to see us tackle or have questions, we’d love for you to reach out. You can find our pitch form here.

The Impact Driver Podcast is a production of the Climbing Business Journal. Today’s episode is sponsored by Rungne, Trango, Rock Gym Pro, Flashed and Onsite. It was edited and produced by Holly Yu Tung Chen, Megan Cheek, Scott Rennak and Joe Robinson, and our theme music is by Devin Dabney.

The post Doors, Not Walls: Rethinking Routesetting Pathways – CBJ Podcast with Sierra McMurry appeared first on Climbing Business Journal.

It feels like the world is more complicated today than it was two years ago, and as much as I want to believe that the climbing and setting community is insulated from it all, it’s not. We are a reflection of the world around us. It doesn’t surprise me to find out that Ruth Jang’s episode on collaboration and collective authorship is our most popular routesetting episode of the year. I think as we navigate an increasingly chaotic world, we are reaching out to each other for support, and this episode almost feels like a blueprint for doing so.

Ruth frames collaboration in a way that I haven’t been able to shake since recording the episode. She emphasizes that true collaboration isn’t about everyone agreeing or taking direction from the comp chief without argument; it’s about authenticity, curiosity, and showing up as our true selves while working toward a shared goal.

If I ask any of our listeners what their goals are for the industry or routesetting profession, I will get a unique set of answers. But I’m willing to bet that many of our different answers, at their core, share a commonality of improving ourselves and improving our community.

Within the routesetting community, there are so many of us who want to improve our craft; who want to see more faces within the setting industry that represent the changing demographic of the climbing community; who want to see the industry succeed and innovate, not just for the sake of our work life improving but to bring this wonderful sport to more people who would benefit from it; who want to see the highest levels of competition climbing and setting get pushed; who want to see citizen comps bring the community together.

When you look at some of these goals that are bigger than us as individual setters, the idea of actually achieving them can feel daunting—even impossible. There is no consensus on how we can do it together, with our different visions and approaches. When I feel hopeless, I think about this episode and how Ruth frames this chaos as the beauty of collaboration. It’s not about getting so-and-so to agree with me but about bringing myself to the table as I am: a routesetter and a nerdy journalist. My co-workers, comp chiefs and crewmates will bring themselves to the table as they are. Ruth says that this mix of authenticity and individuality, from which something new and exciting can emerge, is the very foundation of true collaboration.

So yes, I find myself listening back to this episode during tough setting days. And I find myself thinking about the true meaning of collaboration and how I can bring a little bit of that meaning, through my day-to-day interactions, into an industry that has changed from a fringe job to a skilled labor profession.

When Scott first approached me with the idea of turning our Behind the Wrench written interviews into a podcast almost three years ago, I was excited but apprehensive. Aside from listening to a few podcasts myself, I had no knowledge of how anything worked. What followed was months of googling and pestering people I knew who worked in audio. I don’t know what I thought would happen, but I never imagined it would become what it is today.

Scott, Naomi and Joe were the best soundboards as we tried to decide what CBJ’s routesetting podcast would look and sound like, the topics we wanted to explore, the people we wanted to invite on as guests. I can’t thank them and you—our listeners—enough for making The Impact Driver Podcast what it is.

I’m excited for the changes coming down the pipeline in 2026, and I’m excited about all the setters I’ll get to chat with next.

Happy holidays, and we’ll see you in the new year!

– Holly Chen, Host of The Impact Driver Podcast at CBJ

No One Sets Alone: Collective Authorship – CBJ Podcast with Ruth Jang

Today’s episode brings Ruth Jang to the show. Ruth was a routesetter at Central Rock Gym in Atlanta, Georgia; now she is the Head Setter at Tension, a position she stepped into after this interview was recorded. Ruth first picked up setting as a bucket list challenge and because she saw a gap in the gym: not enough entry-level, competition-style boulders for people to learn from and enjoy. Her thought? “Why not infiltrate from the inside and learn from the best?” Before she knew it, she was pulled into the gravity of the setting world. Today, Ruth is a USAC Level 3 routesetter and set her first national event last June. She’s also set for citizen comps, like Method Underground. Before setting, Ruth came from a background in academia and biomedical research, where she studied stem cells and the opioid epidemic. Ruth shares wisdom from both her academic and setting backgrounds on this week’s podcast, diving into nuances around team dynamics in routesetting and much more.

General Topics Covered

• How a negative became a positive: Ruth’s unusual introduction to climbing
• An Eastern versus Western approach to team dynamics: collective and individual identity
• What is true collaboration in routesetting?
• The similarities between team sports and routesetting
• Communication and how it can change team dynamics
• Poetry and routesetting
• Handling arrogance in the setting industry

Show Notes

• Find Ruth Jang on Instagram
• Find Ruth’s poems, Logic of the Woods—all proceeds go toward the Southeastern Climbing Coalition (SCC) and Training Indonesians for Transition to Institutional Programs (TITIP).
• Central Rock Gym
• What is Futsal?
• The difference between Eastern and Western (collective versus individualistic). Further readings: 
  • How East and West think in profoundly different ways, David Robson, BBC
  • Cultural differences are far more nuanced than East vs West, Matt Hudson, Psyche
• “I think, therefore I am.”
• Resources and further reading on Eating Disorders: 
  • National Eating Disorder Association
  • National Institute of Mental Health – Eating Disorders

Closing Notes

If you’d like to nominate someone as a next guest, have a topic you want to see us tackle, or have questions, we’d love for you to reach out here.

The Impact Driver podcast is a production of the Climbing Business Journal. Today’s episode is sponsored by Essential Climbing and Trango. It was edited and produced by Holly Yu Tung Chen, Scott Rennak, and the team at CBJ. Our theme music is by Devin Dabney.

The post The Top CBJ Podcast Episode of 2025 for Routesetters appeared first on Climbing Business Journal.

The USA Climbing competition season is well underway and athletes are showing up to qualification events across the country. On this episode of The Impact Driver Podcast, host Holly Chen invites former USAC Routesetting Director Mike Bockino to chat all about competition setting.

Mike is someone who needs no introduction, but we’re going to introduce him anyway. Climbing since 1999 and setting commercially since 2009, Mike estimates that he has set over 150 competitions, including 28 National Championships and 6 World Cups. He bounced between Salt Lake City and Boise in his early setting days before landing at The Front Climbing Club, where he eventually became the Director of Setting. In 2020, he became USA Climbing’s Routesetting Director. Mike left that position in 2025 to join Essential Climbing. He is a USAC Level 5 National Head Routesetter, an IFSC Level 2 Routesetter, and a certified strength coach. When Mike is not setting or climbing, he enjoys making restaurant-grade tomato sauce.

General Topics Covered

• Life of USAC’s Routesetting Director and what comes next
• The evolution of difficulty in bouldering events
• The specialization of setters: Why do setters often gravitate toward bouldering competitions?
• Selective memory of competition setters: If competitions are so taxing, why do we keep doing it?
• Setting for athletes versus setting for spectators
• Assessing difficulty based on a setter’s abilities
• How setters can manage the pressure of perfection and look past it
• Don’t sleep on the soft skills of routesetting
• Personal limits within routesetting: Do they exist?

Show Notes

• Find Mike Bockino on Instagram
• Essential Climbing Welcomes Mike Bockino to the Team
• Mike’s blog

Closing Notes

If you’d like to nominate someone as a next guest, have a topic you want to see us tackle or have questions, we’d love for you to reach out. You can find our pitch form here.

The Impact Driver podcast is a production of the Climbing Business Journal. Today’s episode is sponsored by Approach and Butora. It was edited and produced by Holly Yu Tung Chen, Megan Cheek, Scott Rennak, and the team at CBJ. Our theme music is by Devin Dabney.

The post Lessons From the Sharp End of Modern Setting – CBJ Podcast with Mike Bockino appeared first on Climbing Business Journal.

As the routesetting field continues to become more professionalized, so do our standards and expectations. On this episode of The Impact Driver Podcast, host Holly Chen talks with Colorado-based routesetter Daniel Cornella about the state of routesetting education and the elements of good competition sport routes.

Dan first discovered climbing thanks to his high school biology teacher, took a detour to serve in the Marines in California, and eventually found his way back to the Colorado climbing scene. In 2013, he was introduced to routesetting at Life Time Fitness by Matt Lloyd. If you’ve climbed in a Colorado gym in the last decade—from the iconic 90s-era gym Rock’n & Jam’n (now The Spot Thornton) to various Movement locations—chances are you’ve pulled on something set by Dan, who is now the Assistant Director of Routesetting at Movement’s Centennial facility.

Dan is also a USAC Level 4 Setter and has set for Youth Nationals, National Cups and Vail Citizens competitions. He has also chiefed half a dozen youth championship events. Outside of climbing, Dan works in high rigging for concerts at major Colorado venues, such as Ball Arena. Above all else, he is a proud husband and father.

General Topics Covered

• A catch-22 of routesetting
• How gyms can work internally to educate setters through a standardized pipeline
• Balancing the creative and technical aspects when educating setters
• Preparing routesetters for their first competition
• Speed is style
• The elements of a good skeleton for a rope route
• Tips and tricks on building pump, from recreational to Olympian-level routes, and why every limb should have a job
• Systematic forerunning and how to approach skeletons versus near-comp-ready routes

Show Notes

• Find Dan Cornella on Instagram
• Movement x B-Pump Collaboration Brings Japanese Routesetting and Training to Colorado
• Rumble in the Rockies

Closing Notes

If you’d like to nominate someone as a next guest, have a topic you want to see us tackle or have questions, we’d love for you to reach out.

The Impact Driver Podcast is a production of the Climbing Business Journal. Today’s episode is sponsored by Essential Climbing and Strati. It was edited and produced by Holly Yu Tung Chen, Megan Cheek, Scott Rennak and the team at CBJ. Our theme music is by Devin Dabney.

The post The Art of Building Pump – CBJ Podcast with Daniel Cornella appeared first on Climbing Business Journal.

The sharp, staccato burst of a drill; the gentle pat-pat-pat of a chalk sock; the metallic clang of shuffling ladders…in our day-to-day routesetting sessions is where the craft of routesetting lives, and it’s where the Grip List Awards are ultimately decided each year.

This year, setters voting in the Grip List Survey made their priorities clear: ergonomic comfort, ease of use, versatility and quality. These words came up again and again in the survey responses. With more hold options to choose from than ever, the finer details can make all the difference, and setters are increasingly veering toward grips that make their jobs more efficient, effective and sustainable. This slow-stewing evolution comes as no surprise; as routesetting becomes more professionalized by the year—with this year seeing the launch of the CWA’s Professional Routesetting Certifications, for example—so too do the grips fueling the craft.

Big competition stages continued to influence what routesetters gravitated toward in their grip selections this year, as well. Dual texture and no texture, uni-directional holds and flashy macros still play a key part in the setting zeitgeist, while jibs, screw-ons and micro-edges continue to shift from background players to main characters. These competition mainstays always find their way into local gyms, where members now expect that same mix of spectacle underfoot (and hand).

Like other industry sectors, businesses in the holds sector—especially in the U.S.—had to navigate shifts in tariffs and international trade in 2025, which have reportedly been impacting the markets for polyurethane and resin. In a sector where margins are already tight and international distribution is central to growth, it all creates fresh uncertainties for hold suppliers and their customers. But those challenges haven’t put a pause on innovation. Hold shapers, brands and manufacturers have been continuing to respond to routesetters’ needs, not only with new shapes but also with lighter materials that reduce shipping costs and more recyclable options that reduce waste.

To celebrate the full circle of businesses bringing these tools of the trade to life, CBJ followed up the addition of the Favorite Shaper award last year with a new Favorite Manufacturer award this year. Which manufacturer topped the list in the category’s debut? Which brands further cemented their legacy, and which one cracked the Grip List for the first time? Whose shaping skills have setters been appreciating most? We highlight all the winners from 2025—setters’ favorite holds, volumes, board systems, apps and more—and share the full results in each category below.

Thank you to all the routesetters who voted in this year’s survey, as well as all the shapers, brands and manufacturers who have been stocking setters’ closets with these fundamental building blocks of our sport. Your passion is core to what makes this industry thrive!

Jump To Results:
Holds – Volumes – Macros – Board Systems – Setting App – Spraywall App – Shaper – Manufacturer

Favorite Climbing Holds 2025
FLATHOLD

Flathold, co-led by Manuel Hassler and Mathieu Achermann, continued its reign at the top of the Grip List for a third straight year and again secured multiple awards, including the Grand Prize, Favorite Holds and Favorite Macros titles. Known for balancing timelessness with thoughtful innovation, the Switzerland-based brand has consistently delivered shapes that setters praise for their comfort, versatility and quality.

2025 marked a milestone for Flathold with the launch of Ravage, the first range shaped by new team member Yoris Delahay.

“This year has been a little bit special,” Achermann told CBJ. “After two years of collaborating with Yoris, teaching him, let’s say, ‘the Flathold style,’ Yoris released his first range for the brand and became the first external new shaper in the team.”

Inspired by natural textures, Ravage blends slick, quartz-like seams with soft, controlled surfaces, extending Flathold’s long-running exploration of dual texture.

For Hassler and Achermann, bringing Delahay into the fold was more than just about new shapes. “It was also an interesting process for Manu and me to exchange with a new shaper,” Achermann explained. “It gives a different perspective and a new, fresh motivation in the team. We are happy to finally also share our experience and knowledge with a new shaper.”

Flathold also launched Mephisto, a series of nine fiberglass macros designed as true slopers; the cleanly lined, dual-texture grips force particular body positions while still remaining usable even on steep walls. Both Ravage and Mephisto embody what the team at Flathold consider to be their signature offering: organic yet functional shapes.

It’s not always about what’s new for Flathold, though; among Flathold’s most enduring contributions cited in the Grip List is the Damage Control line. Survey responses in 2025 and years past repeatedly singled it out as one of the most reliable and versatile hold families in the industry, showing that while Flathold may always be releasing new shapes, their classics still anchor countless gyms and competitions, too.

Looking ahead, the team is showing no signs of slowing. Achermann told CBJ that a pocket extension of the Lucha Libre line will debut by the end of the year, followed by a major release of 200 new shapes in 2026.

“So many incredible shapes that can be used for both high-level comp setting and really fun commercial problems.”
 – Molly Beard, Head Setter, Brimstone Boulders, USA

“The PU allows for stacking and thus an increase in variability.”
– Rom Snir, Level 2 National Setter, Totem Climbing Pardes Hana, Asia

1 – Flathold (19.10%)
2 – Cheeta (10.64%)
3 – Bluepill (6.1%)
4 – Kilter (5.35%)
5 – Decoy (4.48%)
6 – Teknik (4.26%)
7 – IBEX (3.14%)
8 – Pusher (2.64%)
9 – AG (2.33%)
10 – Ocelot (2.02%)
11 – Axis (1.99%)
11 – SupR (1.99%)
13 – Trango (1.96%)
14 – Blocz (1.87%)
15 – CCE (1.71%)
16 – Rock Candy (1.68%)
17 – Unleashed (1.46%)
17 – Xcult (1.46%)
19 – Squadra (1.4%)
20 – Unit (1.31%)
21 – Urban Plastix (1.24%)
22 – 360 (1.21%)
22 – eXpression (1.21%)
22 – So iLL (1.21%)
25 – Escape (1.09%)
+71 brands had under 1%

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Favorite Wood Volumes 2025
BLOCZ

For a sixth consecutive year, Blocz again took home the Favorite Wood Volumes award in the Grip List. Operating out of Germany, the brand’s volumes are frequently heralded for their durability and versatility.

In 2025, Blocz focused on refining existing designs rather than expanding their catalog. Alongside classics like the Boards and Triangles, the company redesigned older lines too, such as the Rectangles and Squares, which customers welcomed for their updated utility that maintains the strength of the originals. When it comes to fine-tuning proven designs instead of releasing new shapes for novelty alone, Blocz continues to be among the brands at the forefront of that trend.

Tom Petzold, founder and CEO of both Blocz and Element Boulders, a climbing gym in Switzerland, told CBJ that the driving philosophy behind Blocz is “innovation through collaboration.”

“We co‑develop with setters and gyms worldwide,” Petzold continued. “[We] test relentlessly in real environments and iterate quickly.”

Durability remains a core focus at the company. Blocz constructs volumes from premium birch plywood, reinforces stress points, and applies coatings that hold up to commercial wear. They also provide upcycling kits that allow gyms to repair and refresh volumes, extending the lifespan and reducing waste.

As gym owners themselves, the Blocz team develops products based on the needs they encounter daily, testing them with setters worldwide before releasing them to the public. Looking ahead, they plan to continue updating older lines while exploring production methods that combine lightweight, 3D-printed grips with epoxy coatings, with a goal of improving the handling and longevity of their creations.

“Blocz has dialed in the texture, and they have so many great shapes that are simple and versatile.”
– Connor Westlake, Routesetter, HiClimb, USA

“It’s the quality and the vast catalog. It’s hard to compete with Blocz.”
– Lucas Bundy, Director of Routesetting, CityRock, USA

1 – Blocz (19.18%)
2 – Usable Surface (9.80%)
3 – AVA (8.98%)
4 – Fit (6.94%)
5 – Cheeta (5.71%)
5 – Solution (5.71%)
7 – Bluepill (3.67%)
8 – Simpl (2.86%)
9 – Dimension (2.04%)
9 – DIY by gym (2.04%)
11 – EP (2.04%)
+43 brands had under 2%

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Favorite Macros 2025
FLATHOLD

Flathold topped the Favorite Macros category again in 2025, a title they haven’t lost since the category was introduced five years ago.

Survey responses showed that what sets Flathold’s macros apart is how they balance comfort and creativity. Routesetters described them as ergonomic yet challenging, with shapes that can serve both beginner-friendly movement and World-Cup-style difficulty. Many setters emphasized the brand’s versatility; as one voter put it, “if there’s a move I want to set, I can usually set it with Flathold.” Others pointed to clean dual-texture designs, a wide variety across the ranges, and timeless slopers as reasons why Flathold macros continue to feel indispensable.

Survey responses also highlighted the company’s artistic vision, calling their macros “iconic” and “works of art” that elevate the look of any wall. Beyond aesthetics, setters consistently praised their reliability, describing the macros as durable, well made, and adaptable across different terrains and grades. Across the comments, one theme kept emerging: Flathold macros aren’t just popular—they’re viewed as essential tools of modern routesetting.

“I feel like the diversity in most of the sets are just unmatched when it comes to trying to force a certain move set.”
– Carter Hawkins, Lead Routesetter, Climbing Collective, USA

“For me they are classic shapes, well made, well thought about and well executed.”
– William Hammersla, National Coach and Chief Routesetter, Swiss Alpine Club, Switzerland

1 – Flathold (29.44%)
2 – Bluepill (14.72%)
3 – SupR (5.63%)
4 – AG (4.76%)
4 – Cheeta (4.76%)
6 – Xcult (3.46%)
7 – 360 (3.03%)
8 – IBEX (2.60%)
8 – Kilter (2.60%)
10 – Absolute (2.16%)
10 -ArtLine (2.16%)
10 -Morpho (2.16%)
10 -Rockcity (2.16%)
+30 brands had under 2%

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Favorite Training Board Hold System 2025
TENSION

Runner-up the past few years, this year Denver-based Tension claimed the top honors and won its first-ever Grip List award as the Favorite Training Board Hold System.

Tension just celebrated its 10-year anniversary, and while their products have certainly evolved over the years, their core philosophy has stayed the same. CBJ spoke with Michael Rosato, the Marketing Director at Tension, who pointed out that nearly everyone at Tension is a seasoned climber who uses the products themselves. “We are them,” Rosato said. That guiding principle has fueled a decade of innovation in boards and training equipment, from campus rungs to hangboards.

In 2016, the original Tension Board introduced a host of firsts: angle adjustability, wooden holds, mirrored layouts, foot-only LED options, and matching/no-matching rules within the app. The second generation, Tension Board 2, launched in 2022 and built on that foundation, providing a hybrid layout that offers two distinct hold configurations in a single set. Designed to be what Tension calls “an adaptable platform,” the TB2 allows climbers to progress from a spray-style experience to systematic weakness training without additional purchases.

The TB2 was intentionally designed to deliver a more comprehensive progression environment. Tension spent nearly four years testing variables, comparing spraywalls and mirrored boards to determine the mix of hold diversity, grip textures and wall angles they wanted on the board. The result is a system that’s purposefully built to make users better all-around climbers—not just stronger in one style.

Rosato also emphasized that a board is more than hardware. “If the board is the body, the brand is the soul,” Rosato told CBJ. Through content, clinics, and global database curation, Tension is among the leading brands who have been fostering a board climbing culture that treats boards not only as training tools but as destinations in their own right.

“Actual rock climbing skills on a hyper-dense board with finger-intense grips.”
– Max Donovan, Regional Routesetting Manager, The Spot, USA

“Plastic and wood options, challenging and good routes.”
– Sierra McMurry, Routesetter, Triangle Rock Club, USA

1 – Tension (40.09%)
2 – Kilter (31.98%)
3 – Moon (13.96%)
4 – Decoy (3.60%)
5 – Lumo (3.15%)
+12 brands had under 3%

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Favorite Routesetting App 2025
PLASTICK / KAYA

For a fourth year in a row, KAYA/PLASTICK was voted by setters as the Favorite Routesetting App. The complementary platforms have always worked in tandem, with setters managing routes in the PLASTICK platform and climbers interacting with them in the KAYA app.

KAYA’s mission, the team said, is “to help climbers share meaningful experiences on and off the wall.” Over the past few years, they have been expanding the platform beyond routesetting tools into what they describe as “a holistic member engagement and retention tool for our partner gyms.”

The idea, the KAYA team explained, is that while gyms remain the places where climbers gather, KAYA serves as “the digital layer that keeps climbers connected with their community while outside of the gym, and it’s a powerful tool to help climbers unlock beta and discover their next project.”

A recent feature of late, called Climbers You Follow, puts friends’ climbing activity directly on a user’s homepage, so they can celebrate each other’s achievements. “Climbers who follow each other and connect with their friends on KAYA end up cultivating healthy, thriving communities in their gyms,” the team stated.

Looking ahead, KAYA plans to keep rolling out more tools for gyms and members to strengthen their climbing and social experiences, while aiming to “continue to build with the climber at the forefront to help cultivate meaningful connections.”

“Easy to use.”
– Jacqueline Des Rosiers, Head Routesetter, Hogtown Boulders, USA

“The tools it offers for tracking different analytics is super helpful when it comes to balancing all the climbs in a gym.”
– Anthony Lara, Senior Routesetter, Alta Climbing, USA

1 – Plastick /KAYA (43.66%)
2 – Griptonite (11.27%)
3 – Vertical-Life (8.45%)
4 – Pebble (7.04%)
5 – Climb Time (5.63%)
5 – TopLogger (5.63%)
7 – spreadsheets (4.23%)
8 – Social Boulder (2.82%)
+8 brands had under 2%

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Favorite Spraywall App 2025
STOKT

Stōkt has won the Favorite Spraywall App award every year since it began in 2022, and this year marked their fourth consecutive victory. In fact, Stōkt was the only brand in 2025 to claim over half the vote in a Grip List category.

The team attributes that success to building an app that feels “like it’s made by people who actually climb,” pointing out that everyone on the Stōkt team is not only a climber but also has a background in technology or design. Together they embrace the reality that every wall—and community that uses it—is different by designing tools with a focus on respecting individuality and responding to feedback.

Through the Stōkt platform, gyms can create contests, challenges and leaderboards for members, and climbers can find climbs on spraywalls and add their own, with the ability to grade climbs, share beta, track performance and more.

Looking ahead, Stōkt is experimenting with how AI could be used to make training and setting more intuitive. From personalized progression tools to smarter feedback loops, the company sees potential in combining data and creativity to help climbers to keep moving forward. Even if it sounds complex, they assured their philosophy remains simple: to continue being a climber-driven team that uses design and tech to make the climbing industry “more creative, more connected and more sustainable.”

“Cool how it outlines the holds. Very easy to use.”
– Jono Giles, Freelance Routesetter, Kingline Routesetting, Australia/Oceania

“Easy to use, great graphics. Resets are done incredibly fast. We use it for our three adjustable commercial boards as well as our 16’ spraywall.”
– Ben Bivins, Head Setter, Burly Bloc, USA

1 – Stōkt (54.87%)
2 – Retro Flash (11.50%)
3 – Lumo (7.96%)
4 – Crux Climb (5.31%)
4 – Kilter (5.31%)
6 – Boulderbook (4.42%)
7 – Moon (2.65%)
+7 brands had under 2%

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Favorite Shaper 2025
DAN YAGMIN

Dan Yagmin of Decoy has now won the Favorite Shaper award two years in a row, after the category was first introduced in 2024. Known for drawing on natural forms and textures, Yagmin told CBJ: “I am largely inspired by nature, even when it comes to smooth shapes. I think in nature there is a certain level of nuance present that is always interesting to me.”

Much of his recent inspiration has come from climbing near his home in New England on boulders and crags made of fine-grained granitic gneiss. “From this rock I have found a lot of inspiration, and it’s what has largely driven the development of the Gneiss range that we recently launched.”

Although he describes himself as a traditionalist, Yagmin has still embraced modern tools for shaping and hold creation, such as Z-Brush. “As much as I think of myself as a traditionalist, I still enjoy pursuing the potential behind digital shaping, 3D printing, and thermoforming,” he explained. He sees these techniques not only as a source of stylistic innovation but also as a pathway toward more sustainable practices in hold shaping and manufacturing.

Survey responses this year reflected the same themes that run through Yagmin’s own philosophy. Setters consistently described his shapes as works of art, with details that evoke outdoor rock formations while remaining highly functional indoors. Others pointed to the way he balances ergonomics with creativity and cited an ability to connect with setters on a personal level. Setters also showed appreciation for his ranges at Decoy, from fine-textured jibs to large macros.

2025 was a busy year for Decoy, with new products that ranged from the PU Gneiss series made by Peak Polymers in Ohio to fiberglass Mobula Macros produced by Escape Structures in Bulgaria and recyclable jibs manufactured by Ghold in France. “From a personal perspective, I am most proud that Decoy has remained a small company where I can stay involved in many aspects of it,” Yagmin said, crediting collaborators TJ Kelly and Zach Smith for helping keep the company running while he continues to shape.

Looking ahead, Yagmin is working on a new layout for the Decoy Board and exploring a fully recyclable line with Ghold in France.

“No other hold shaper has nailed the detail of real rock like Dan has. He is a true artist and it shows in his holds, not only in functionality but in visuals. The intricate lines/details/indents and placement make his climbing holds truly mimic real rock.
– Jen Chmiel, Head Routesetter, Ascent Climbing Gym, USA

“I appreciate Dan’s versatility across a wide range of styles and aesthetics, while keeping his brand cohesive, fresh and relevant. His work only seems to increase in quality and strikes the right balance of ergonomics, novelty and practicality.”
– Karl Cordtz, Routesetter, Touchstone, USA

1 – Dan Yagmin (11.18%)
2 – Joseph Hoffmann/Wetzel (8.82%)
3 – Manu Hassler (7.06%)
4 – Ian Powell (6.47%)
5 – Dario Stefanou (5.88%)
6 – Jimmy Webb (4.12%)
7 – Frank Bogerman (3.53%)
7 – Joey Jannsen (3.53%)
7 – Peter Juhl (3.53%)
10 – Gautier Supper (2.94%)
10 – Jared Roth (2.94%)
12 – Laurent Laporte (2.35%)
12 – Roy Quanstrom (2.35%)
12 – Will Watkins (2.35%)
+40 shapers had under 2%

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Favorite Manufacturer 2025
COMPOSITE-X

This year marked the debut of a new Grip List category recognizing hold manufacturers, and Bulgaria-based Composite-X took the inaugural honor. CBJ corresponded with chemist Daniel French, Composite-X’s Executive Director, to hear more about what sets them apart.

“Probably the depth of research and specialization we go to in the production process,” French said. “At CX we don’t really develop new science, but rather we take advantage of the huge opportunities of applying science and engineering solutions that already exist to climbing holds.”

Durability has been central to their reputation, thanks in large part to the Dannomond technology they use. “Durability or wear resistance was the key target parameter in developing the Dannomond formulation and process,” French explained. “Because we manufacture our own formulations from basic raw materials, we maintain complete control over the supply and chemistry.”

Customer feedback plays an equally important role in the team’s philosophy: “For us, the customer is usually the climbing hold brand, and they often come to us with new, innovative ideas. Our job is to figure out how to make those ideas a reality—turning their creative visions into high-performance products.”

Looking ahead to 2026, the team at Composite-X said they are exploring the use of new polyester resins that reportedly increase impact resistance six-fold, along with working on new textures, such as “Cool SKUISH”—which they describe as feeling like moleskin—and even one “that bites, like the feeling of a cat’s tongue.” More will be unveiled at the Vertical Pro trade show in Germany next month.

“I’ve been extremely impressed with the quality of plastic produced by Composite-X. Their colors are so vivid, the manufacturing is so crisp, and [the grips] seem to retain their texture even after the heaviest of use.”
– Aaron Young, Head Routesetter, Rockfish Climbing & Fitness, USA

“Flexible, durable, constant improvement in process.”
– Kyram Adsit, Regional Head Routesetter, Momentum, USA

1 – Composite X (21.43%)
2 – Blocz (14.29%)
3 – Aragon (12.42%)
4 – Peak Performance Polymers (9.94%)
5 – Schlamberger (4.97%)
6 – Kastline (4.04%)
7 – 360 (3.11%)
7 – Absolute (3.11%)
7 – Binary (3.11%)
7 – Xcult (3.11%)
11 – AG (2.48%)
+21 brands had under 2%

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Methodology

This year’s Grip List Survey ran from July 17 to August 6, 2025, and was shared across CBJ’s digital platforms. Like last year, all routesetter votes—votes of professional setters who have been paid to set in the past 12 months or have set in a commercial climbing gym, competition, rec center or university/school setting—were compiled to decide all the awards.

For the Grand Prize and Favorite Holds awards, we assigned these points: each first pick got 5pts; each second pick got 4pts; each third pick got 3pts. The sum of the points determined the Favorite Holds brands, with the brand in 1st place receiving the Grand Prize. This methodology originated from veteran shaper Ty Foose and aims to provide a better representation of brand popularity among setters, versus a single brand vote. The voting for all other awards, however, was handled plainly as in years past, with each vote counting as one.

Below are some charts showing the distribution of the votes by various factors.

The post 2025 Grip List Awards appeared first on Climbing Business Journal.

On this episode of The Impact Driver Podcast, host Holly Chen sits down with Nickolas Gagliardi to get us thinking about USAC events as routesetters gear up for the upcoming youth competition season.

Nick started setting in 2015 in St. Paul, Minnesota. While that beginning was only ten years ago, Nick experienced the industry when many setters were still getting paid by the route and boulder—specifically, $7 a boulder, $11 a top rope route, $15 a lead route and $26 for setting the roof. From there, Nick moved to Colorado where he set at the Earth Treks gyms—now Movement—before he finally landed in Portland, Oregon. Now, Nick is a USAC Level 3 routesetter and the Director of Setting at Portland Rock Gym. When he’s not setting, Nick is often climbing outdoors, playing video games, and trying to get better at Go.

General Topics Covered

• The history of Portland Rock Gym’s Beaverton location, designed with setters and competitions in mind
• Key elements of a competition-ready gym
• Communicating with members about hosting USAC competitions
• Preparing to host Youth Nationals
• Lessons learned from hosting Youth Nationals—and what could be done differently next time
• Managing relationships between in-house and guest setters
• Setting novice routesetters up for success in their first competition
• Professional development opportunities for experienced competition setters

Show Notes

• Find Nick Gagliardi on Instagram
• Portland Rock Gym
• 2025 Youth National Championships at the Portland Rock Gym, Beaverton
• USA Climbing Routesetters
• USAC Boulder QE Setting Guidelines and Top Rope/Lead Guidelines
• USAC Rulebook
• You’re Stronger if You’re Honest: Behind the Wrench With Abby Wilson 
• More episodes of The Impact Driver Podcast that look at competition team dynamics: 
  • Setting the Tone: What Makes a Space Feel Good? – CBJ Podcast with Jesse Safford
  • No One Sets Alone: Collective Authorship – CBJ Podcast with Ruth Jang
  • “You Can Strip My Boulder.” – CBJ Podcast with Blake Green

Closing Notes

If you’d like to nominate someone as a next guest, have a topic you want to see us tackle or have questions, we’d love for you to reach out.

The Impact Driver podcast is a production of the Climbing Business Journal. Today’s episode is sponsored by Kilter and Bold Climbing. It was edited and produced by Holly Yu Tung Chen, Megan Cheek, Scott Rennak and the team at CBJ. Our theme music is by Devin Dabney.

The post So You Want to Host a Comp? – CBJ Podcast with Nickolas Gagliardi appeared first on Climbing Business Journal.

On this expansive episode of The Impact Driver Podcast, host Holly Chen brings on two setters—Nat Vorel and Mia DePaolis—to talk about paraclimbing and parasetting, diving into fundamentals and tips that any setter can put into practice.

Nat Vorel is based in Oklahoma City and has been climbing for ten years, paraclimbing for around five of them. They are a four-time National Champion and have five World Cup podiums. Nat started setting five years ago and turned freelance recently. Nat has set for a variety of competitions, from local qualifiers and citizens comps to paraclimbing comps. They have a USAC L1 setting certification and an AMGA Single Pitch Instructor certification for guiding. Climbing and setting aside, Nat is a costume designer and would like to shout out their three tabby cats, whom they love dearly.

Mia DePaolis is the Head Routesetter at Central Rock Gym in Randolph, Massachusetts. She has been climbing for over twenty years and setting for ten of those years. After hearing from some local paraclimbers, Mia began to run an annual paraclimbing comp, the Randolph Rumble, at CRG. She is a USAC Level 3 routesetter with only one more national event to go before obtaining the next level. She is also a certified sports nutrition coach. Outside of climbing and setting, Mia worked as a beekeeper for many years and continues to love bees.

General Topics Covered

• Who are paraclimbers and what are the competition categories?
• Debunking common myths and assumptions about paraclimbers
• Fundamentals of setting for paraclimbers
• Are there distinctive tones or styles in para routes/boulders?
• Paraclimbing introduces creative techniques and beta 
• Paraclimbing competition basics: safety, format, scoring, time, local to world stage
• Building and educating a robust volunteer parabelay community
• The future of paraclimbing and the 2028 Los Angeles Olympic Games

Show Notes

• Find Nat Vorel on Instagram
• Find Mia DePaolis on Instagram
• Central Rock Gym
• USAC Paraclimbing and USAC Parasetting Clinics
• IFSC Paraclimbing
• Ehlers-Danlos Syndromes
• Randolph Rumble, Central Rock Gym’s annual paraclimbing competition
• Para Climbing Set to Make Paralympics Debut

Closing Notes

If you’d like to nominate someone as a next guest, have a topic you want to see us tackle or have questions, we’d love for you to reach out. 

The Impact Driver podcast is a production of the Climbing Business Journal. Today’s episode is sponsored by EP Climbing and Trango. It was edited and produced by Holly Yu Tung Chen, Scott Rennak and the team at CBJ. Our theme music is by Devin Dabney.

The post Fundamentals of Paraclimbing and Parasetting – CBJ Podcast with Mia DePaolis & Nat Vorel appeared first on Climbing Business Journal.

Jesse Safford (they/them) started climbing during college in Montana, but it wasn’t until they moved to Grand Rapids, Michigan, that they stumbled upon setting. Now Jesse is the Head Setter at Terra Firma. Jesse is also an avid comp setter, chiefing and setting their annual in-house Rabble Rouser competition at Terra Firma, and has set for Death Moth, Siege the Southeast and Flight of the Phoenix, among many others. Most recently, they’re extremely excited about the upcoming Midwest Mayhem series. Outside of climbing, Jesse is a birdwatcher, Dungeons and Dragons player, and cat parent. What does D&D have to do with working on a routesetting team? How can we all play a role in improving our team dynamics? Jesse and Holly dive into those topics and much more on today’s episode.

General Topics Covered

• What does it mean to have “good vibes” on a routesetting team?
• How social pressure influences us in routesetting and tips for Head Setters/Event Chiefs to soften the atmosphere
• Emotional awareness and situational awareness of team dynamics
• What Dungeons and Dragons can teach us about team vibes
• Checking in on yourself and verbalizing your own needs to the team
• Role modeling vulnerability
• How Jesse and our host, Holly, met / Jesse’s perfect D&D campaign

Show Notes

• Find Jesse Safford on Instagram
• Terra Firma
• Competitions mentioned: Death Moth, Siege the Southeast, Midwest Mayhem, Flight of the Phoenix
• All you need to know about Dungeons and Dragons battle strategy

Closing Notes

If you’d like to nominate someone as a next guest, have a topic you want to see us tackle or have questions, we’d love for you to reach out.

The Impact Driver podcast is a production of the Climbing Business Journal. Today’s episode is sponsored by Approach and Trango. It was edited and produced by Holly Yu Tung Chen, Scott Rennak and the team at CBJ. Our theme music is by Devin Dabney.

The post Setting the Tone: What Makes a Space Feel Good? – CBJ Podcast with Jesse Safford appeared first on Climbing Business Journal.